Today was awesome. When I arrived on the compound I joined Karl to watch a lecture online that he was supposed to watch (a Fogerty thing I think). I then went and spoke with an administrative lady (who is also an MD) about my “plan” to shadow every part of the clinic for my first month. As she was taking me to my first assignment I spoke some Kreyol to her. She looked surprised and asked me why I would learn to speak Kreyol instead of French. I told her that I read about Haiti and knew that Haitian Kreyol was the language of the people; I wanted to speak the language of the people. She responded by saying, “Yeah, but wouldn’t French be better for your career?” I responded “Well Haiti might be my career!” It is an interesting commentary on the society though – Kreyol is the language of the people, the poor, even though everyone can speak it. French is the language of the rich.
I shadowed a Dr. in the ARV clinic today (antiretroviral clinic; where the best drugs are given to HIV-positive people). It was perfect; her English was not great and my Kreyol is still terrible, so we worked together. One snafu of the day that was funny; I was introduced to her as Dr. Goodwin…But then 10 minutes into our first patient she was going through a list of drugs in a cocktail and I didn’t know a few (the only reason I knew any was my studying HIV on my own before I came- which it turns out is a good thing I did). She stopped and looked at me and said “You have finished your studies, no?” At which point I had to explain that I wasn’t yet a doctor, but a researcher. Nonetheless I told her I would study tonight.
A few notes from the day: One woman said “no” in response to “do you have sex”. Then the Dr. asked “do you need some condoms?” and the woman looked down and said “yes.” This lady didn’t want to admit to having sex. I have heard this so many times- it doesn’t matter whether you think these people should have less sex or not. The point is that the success rate of “abstinence” isn’t 100%; people don’t adhere 100% to that treatment either. Also, one girl (warning, this is sad) was HIV-positive and having sex with no protection, only birth control. I asked the Dr if she would ask the girl if she had one partner or many. The girl said she had one partner, but he had many. It was interesting. We told her to use condoms.
Another man came in with a bag of medicine. He wanted to show how he had saved some medicine so he could take it on a trip with him. The Dr went to great lengths to explain how bad this was and how she could give him all the medicine he needed until he got back. Another patient came in and asked for money so he could ride home. The Dr simply reached into her purse and gave it to him.
It is interesting that there is no question as to whether I can observe or participate in any of this. I think the patients are so thankful that this is a free unit and a cutting edge research unit in such a poor location and they understand this. I have heard stories of them seeing the “white person” in the room and thinking something must really be wrong with them- why else would they bring in the white doctor? I interact with less than 5 US Americans or white people per day.
I had a few minutes to kill after leaving the room so I went to the adjoining college campus (looks like a very poor elementary school at best; not even that good) and walked to the outdoor canteen to buy a drink. I only had America money but they did not mind. I struggled through a large group and managed to buy a half-liter of coke. It was delicious and nice to mingle. I sat down to drink it and a cute Haitian college student sat down next to me (RIGHT next to me). We talked a little but I don’t know enough to make it any good. She said a really long goodbye and seemed frustrated. I was told she probably wanted my number…still nice to talk randomly with a Haitian though.
On the way home from work, the 4 Americans in the back of out truck had a good laugh; someone had asked one of them where the “Stallion” was at work. This was in reference to me. The American girls were like “what??” Pretty amusing. Stallion must mean something different in Kreyol.
When I got home I made some coffee and headed down to the tennis courts to talk Kreyol with my Haitian friends. With Debouse, Neoo, Betti, and Jeff I spent about two and half hours speaking Kreyol. Not sure why Jeff has such an American name. I made fun of him as much as I could for having such an American name ("Jeff? ou se pa ayitian, se Amerikan!"). Of course, we got around to talking Obama as well. Like him or not (I do), he is having quite an effect all over the world. Although in the US it is historic that we have a black president, I think he represents much more all over the world. Africans have been oppressed by many nations all over the world. Haiti specifically was a beautiful, hilly tourist spot in the 50’s. Think Virgin Islands – now this place looks like a deforested St. John with no trees, trash everywhere, no rules, and people on people. And the smell. Obama represents that the Black man is no longer oppressed (whether that’s true or not). Obama, the black man, is the leader of the free world. It’s exciting to be a US citizen again. I am proud.
We agreed to meet tomorrow at 6 to talk Kreyol/English again. I am worried they will tire of it before I do. I want to speak fluent Kreyol.
Off to study more Kreyol and HIV drugs; I’m pitching a research project to a Dr. at the clinic tomorrow. I want to follow retention of HIV patients in vaccine trials. I am hoping to write up a paper on clinical trials in Haiti, Jamaica, Puerta Rico, and DR. This could make for some nice “qualitative” work that needs to be done on site as well. We shall see tomorrow. I’m also giving blood tomorrow. I was told that I won’t be able to give blood in the states when I return from Haiti, so I might as well do it here.
N’a we demen! (see you tomorrow!)
Thursday, January 29, 2009
Wednesday, January 28, 2009
Day 2: Cervical Lesions
Today felt much more comfortable. I tried my best to speak Creole with folks, although I must admit I am going to leave this a short post so I can study tonight. Today I again helped Karl.
WE saw 5 patients today with HIV/AIDS. It was funny because there was blood on the floor, instruments simply in a trashcan, etc. throughout. Things are different here; you don’t have all the resources. It was quite interesting though. I got to assist with most of the procedures and even sit in front of the microscope looking down at cervical lesions. It was quite interesting.
I met with Dr Joseph today and we discussed my project. It looks like I will be evaluating retention in HIV vaccine trials. I am very excited about this. He went through old lectures of his to give me a starting point and some were in creole, some French, some English. He’s a pretty impressive guy to say the least; but knowing many languages seems to be much more common than I imagined.
WE saw 5 patients today with HIV/AIDS. It was funny because there was blood on the floor, instruments simply in a trashcan, etc. throughout. Things are different here; you don’t have all the resources. It was quite interesting though. I got to assist with most of the procedures and even sit in front of the microscope looking down at cervical lesions. It was quite interesting.
I met with Dr Joseph today and we discussed my project. It looks like I will be evaluating retention in HIV vaccine trials. I am very excited about this. He went through old lectures of his to give me a starting point and some were in creole, some French, some English. He’s a pretty impressive guy to say the least; but knowing many languages seems to be much more common than I imagined.
Day 1: You Pay to Play American!
Today was quite interesting. I was told “be ready” for our driver at 7:30, but in typical Haitian fashion we were picked up at 7:50. I don’t mind it at all, its just strange. Very weird how everyone just does there own pace and its no worries. Today part of me wondered if that way of life negatively impacted the country. Many would say that we (US Americans) are on the other side of the spectrum; all work and no play or relaxation. (Isn’t it strange how we say we are Americans when really we are US Americans or US citizens? Seems a bit egocentric).
At any rate, the ride to GHESKIO downtown from our “plush” accommodations, I realized that I had not seen “people upon people” yet. It was amazing and made you feel alive in some weird way.
GHESKIO is guarded and connected to Quisqueya, one of the universities here.
There are many “clinics” on the site, but really everyone appears to work on top of everyone else. Karl (one of my roommates; a 4th year med student at Vanderbilt) has been incredibly kind in taking me under his wing (he’s been here for 6 months) and allowing me to “shadow” him to get started. First of all, it is a mostly Haitian-staffed work place (I think a full time doc at this clinic would make about 20,000 – hard to convince someone not to go to the states and make six times that). So it was an isolating experience. Thank God for Karl. He walked around the grounds with me today and introduced me to everyone and explained what I was doing, etc. People were extremely friendly despite the fact that I still forget what to say when someone says “Koman ou ye?”(how are you?)…The response is “m’anfom” (I’m fine)….Books have taught me Haitian Creole, but in the city here it is this strange mix of Creole and French. So you’re just as likely to be greeted with “Sa va?”(French how are you or the equivalent). Apparently, French is the language of the rich, so people like speaking any French they can. Weird, because the French oppressed them. Nonetheless, I am going to learn Creole because it seems to be the way to break down some barriers (why would rich white guy speak the language of the people?).
Nonetheless, there is a lot of “kissing” on one side of the cheek. In fact, at one point I met a lady (Karl introduced me of course as I simply smiled) and the lady greeted Karl, stuck here cheek out, then greeted me and stuck her cheek out. And of course, I gave her a real kiss on the cheek like an idiot (rather than the more appropriate and hygienic cheek rub with a kiss sound). Brilliant move on my part.
At one point we met a Dentist who said “oh yes, I heard about you – I saw your records! You are the kid who doesn’t make less than an A+”. Considering I have been trying to be more laid back about everything this was a bit embarrassing. I kind of laughed and told the folks around me that he was exaggerating. I had several other inquiries about exactly what I would be doing. Everyone seemed genuining happy and surprised I would come down for six months, especially since I am NOT in any program. In fact, most people like me are either in a program and doing a rotations (1-2 months) or are Fogarty scholars like my roommates. When I was getting my name badge and stuff the lady was like “So do you have your evaluation papers for the end of the rotation?” I had to explain that I am between my PhD and MD and that this isn’t really a rotation for me. Several things have been like that- confusion because I decided to come outside of any real infrastructure. It reminded me of FJ moving to ECU to work in a lab before PT school. Maybe this will pay off as well as his move did!
Thankfully, there is interest in me developing a research project here. One doctor stopped me in the hallway and told me I should really try to develop a project this week. He was extremely nice but it made me laugh after all the hassles I had gotten about that (not sure if this was mentioned in blog?).
Sometimes the lights will cut off at work. This is common here. The electricity grid simply can’t handle this number of people. Glad I got the back lit keypad and long battery life! If you’re in a conversation and the lights cut off you simply keep talking like nothing happened! TIH, right?
Work ended and I went home, feeling quite isolated. When I got back into the compound I grabbed my tennis racket and went to the courts. They were full. I watched a Haitian man beat the pants off of a heavy, white middle aged European man. Later I was informed that the man (European) is very rich and pays Haitians that are good to play him. I went down to hit on the hitting wall by myself. A young Haitian boy sat and watched me (maybe 15?). I tried to talk to him some but he spoke Creole and French and no English; me just the opposite. After some time I made motions that indicated I was offering he could play with my racket if he wanted. He took it and hit on the wall while I rested. He was awesome, as were all the kids- not sure I would beat any of them. Some other kids came over and played and we tried over and over to talk. Finally a 30 year-old man named Frankie (Haitian) spoke to me and told me he knew some English. His English was quite good and he was excited to practice it with me and teach me Creole. For the next several hours I talked with Frankie and all the kids by the hitting wall. It was awesome. They told me I have to come back the next night.
Last story: Frankie told me that if I play with any Haitian I will be charged a fee. He said that it is expected that an American will pay to play because they can always go back to America and make money and they will want to play while in Haiti. He said that he charges as well, unless it is a good friend. He said that one rich man on the compound will pay you to play him in tennis but won’t give you work to do anywhere else because he wants to be sure you need money from tennis. I asked him if that made him feel taken advantage of. He said no; he knows that if he stops playing tennis there is someone else ready to step up and make money by playing with this guy and other rich expatriots. Interesting perspective.
At any rate, the ride to GHESKIO downtown from our “plush” accommodations, I realized that I had not seen “people upon people” yet. It was amazing and made you feel alive in some weird way.
GHESKIO is guarded and connected to Quisqueya, one of the universities here.
There are many “clinics” on the site, but really everyone appears to work on top of everyone else. Karl (one of my roommates; a 4th year med student at Vanderbilt) has been incredibly kind in taking me under his wing (he’s been here for 6 months) and allowing me to “shadow” him to get started. First of all, it is a mostly Haitian-staffed work place (I think a full time doc at this clinic would make about 20,000 – hard to convince someone not to go to the states and make six times that). So it was an isolating experience. Thank God for Karl. He walked around the grounds with me today and introduced me to everyone and explained what I was doing, etc. People were extremely friendly despite the fact that I still forget what to say when someone says “Koman ou ye?”(how are you?)…The response is “m’anfom” (I’m fine)….Books have taught me Haitian Creole, but in the city here it is this strange mix of Creole and French. So you’re just as likely to be greeted with “Sa va?”(French how are you or the equivalent). Apparently, French is the language of the rich, so people like speaking any French they can. Weird, because the French oppressed them. Nonetheless, I am going to learn Creole because it seems to be the way to break down some barriers (why would rich white guy speak the language of the people?).
Nonetheless, there is a lot of “kissing” on one side of the cheek. In fact, at one point I met a lady (Karl introduced me of course as I simply smiled) and the lady greeted Karl, stuck here cheek out, then greeted me and stuck her cheek out. And of course, I gave her a real kiss on the cheek like an idiot (rather than the more appropriate and hygienic cheek rub with a kiss sound). Brilliant move on my part.
At one point we met a Dentist who said “oh yes, I heard about you – I saw your records! You are the kid who doesn’t make less than an A+”. Considering I have been trying to be more laid back about everything this was a bit embarrassing. I kind of laughed and told the folks around me that he was exaggerating. I had several other inquiries about exactly what I would be doing. Everyone seemed genuining happy and surprised I would come down for six months, especially since I am NOT in any program. In fact, most people like me are either in a program and doing a rotations (1-2 months) or are Fogarty scholars like my roommates. When I was getting my name badge and stuff the lady was like “So do you have your evaluation papers for the end of the rotation?” I had to explain that I am between my PhD and MD and that this isn’t really a rotation for me. Several things have been like that- confusion because I decided to come outside of any real infrastructure. It reminded me of FJ moving to ECU to work in a lab before PT school. Maybe this will pay off as well as his move did!
Thankfully, there is interest in me developing a research project here. One doctor stopped me in the hallway and told me I should really try to develop a project this week. He was extremely nice but it made me laugh after all the hassles I had gotten about that (not sure if this was mentioned in blog?).
Sometimes the lights will cut off at work. This is common here. The electricity grid simply can’t handle this number of people. Glad I got the back lit keypad and long battery life! If you’re in a conversation and the lights cut off you simply keep talking like nothing happened! TIH, right?
Work ended and I went home, feeling quite isolated. When I got back into the compound I grabbed my tennis racket and went to the courts. They were full. I watched a Haitian man beat the pants off of a heavy, white middle aged European man. Later I was informed that the man (European) is very rich and pays Haitians that are good to play him. I went down to hit on the hitting wall by myself. A young Haitian boy sat and watched me (maybe 15?). I tried to talk to him some but he spoke Creole and French and no English; me just the opposite. After some time I made motions that indicated I was offering he could play with my racket if he wanted. He took it and hit on the wall while I rested. He was awesome, as were all the kids- not sure I would beat any of them. Some other kids came over and played and we tried over and over to talk. Finally a 30 year-old man named Frankie (Haitian) spoke to me and told me he knew some English. His English was quite good and he was excited to practice it with me and teach me Creole. For the next several hours I talked with Frankie and all the kids by the hitting wall. It was awesome. They told me I have to come back the next night.
Last story: Frankie told me that if I play with any Haitian I will be charged a fee. He said that it is expected that an American will pay to play because they can always go back to America and make money and they will want to play while in Haiti. He said that he charges as well, unless it is a good friend. He said that one rich man on the compound will pay you to play him in tennis but won’t give you work to do anywhere else because he wants to be sure you need money from tennis. I asked him if that made him feel taken advantage of. He said no; he knows that if he stops playing tennis there is someone else ready to step up and make money by playing with this guy and other rich expatriots. Interesting perspective.
Tuesday, January 27, 2009
OBAMA!
I forgot to mention this story.
Twice, I have been involved in conversations in Creole (and me saying "como?") where the Haitian stops and just says OBAMA!! with a big grin. I love it.
Twice, I have been involved in conversations in Creole (and me saying "como?") where the Haitian stops and just says OBAMA!! with a big grin. I love it.
This is Haiti
Driving through PAP on the way out to the orphanage blew me away. If you’ve been to Mexico City, you’re familiar with two things: 1) crowded streets covered in poverty and 2) no rules of the road. Take your image of that and multiply it by 10. Eric told me that in Haiti they say there are “people upon people” . This is correct. People upon people. Everywhere.
Suddenly a UN truck cuts us off. In the back sit men in full armor with guns (AK-47’s or M-16s) in hand, ready to go. I guessed if I had to see guns like that right off it was best I saw the good guys with them. These are the good guys, aren’t they?
As we wound up the road to the orphanage, I cannot explain what I saw. And I have been assured this is by no means the worst of it. There are Haitians in every nook and cranny on the streets. Not only that, but the mass of people in that condition is overwhelming, even when you’ve read about it and you know it’s coming. As we rode up, I was told about the children at the orphanage. Most have parents elsewhere in Haiti, but the parents found a way to get them to an orphanage because they could not feed/take care of them. It made me wonder what would happen if orphanages for grown-ups were allowed. Would this simply handicap them more? Or is it just too late?
The other striking thing about Haiti is how poor the roads are. You cannot imagine the half-ass job of a paving mess these things are. I was told that one problem is that companies might do a very poor job or quit halfway because when the government in power is given money to fix something (by foreign aid) it usually goes into the pockets of the officials. They simply line their own pockets while they pay people doing infrastructure jobs less or not at all. How do you fix that? The elite care nothing for the destitute. In some ways this reminds me of the states, of Alabama. I am told (as I have read) that Haiti has many times been helped by the US and many times used by the US. I hope to examine these issues more.
We arrived at the orphanage and I was immediately mobbed by about 20 dark-skinned Haitian children age four to 10. So of course I began lifting them high in the air (like I was back at Appalachia Mission!) and making funny noises and stuff. They love it. I find myself spending the next few hours eating huge amounts of rice and beans and trying to speak with the children. We find little to speak about so we just hug and play and point at things and laugh.
There were dogs there too. As much as I love dogs I had a hard time spending much time with them because I kept looking at the children thinking “my animals in the states live more comfortable lives than these people do”. Over lunch Eric and his wife Jennifer laughed at my stories and impressions of Haiti thus far. They told me that in Haiti the saying is “TIH”, or “this is Haiti”. It is that unique.
After a wonderful meal (with some mystery meat) Eric took me down to the airport to find my luggage and look for my ride again. We walk into the airport and find about 20 rows of luggage on the floor in the middle of the airport (try to imagine this in ATL or Greenville-Spartanburg or wherever you fly out of). I see my Auburn bag and my other duffle bag. I figure surely we have to sign for these, so I walk over to the claims to show them my luggage ticket. The lady laughs and tells me to just grab my luggage and go, never looking at the ticket. My instinct sensed that nothing is being stolen though.
We walk back outside and simply stand there, hoping someone there knows me or where to take me. Finally a man walks up to me and unrolls a sign that says GOODWIN GHESKIO on it. He speaks little English (but enough) and takes me into the parking lot. There he puts my bags in the car of a driver (not him) who speaks no English. (Of course, I’m leaving out the part about giving a man five bucks to carry my bag 100 feet to the car. I want you to think I was able to resist this). As I get in the car, an argument ensues and I am told to put my luggage in another vehicle. All the while, they keep asking me the address of where I am going; I of course am never told this by my said Cornell contact (thank God I chat people up on plains and at bars and picked up tips about Haiti on the way!). The new driver then argues with my contact and 2 other drivers (and I guess he won?). Finally we are off- me and a random driver who speaks no English but apparently makes a good case as to why he should take me.
As we weave in and out of traffic honking (literally every 5 seconds) we narrowly avoid a woman and another vehicle (on either side). Wanting to make conversation I say “Bien!” and hold my hands up (isn’t this the universal steering wheel sign?). He is not amused. Seriously, no smile.
After awhile we finally arrive at the compound. This is gated and guarded. Three guards peer over the fence. My driver begins honking and then yelling out the window. The guards yell back. I have NO IDEA what anyone is saying. My driver is mad as hell and they don’t seem to want to let him in. A man walks to my side of the car as I pull out my passport and make some sort of “please let us in I am a stupid US citizen”. It must’ve worked (or was it the 20 I slipped him?); my driver peels a wheel on the way in, still apparently mad as hell.
He then begins asking me what unit in the compound I am in. Of course, I was never given this information despite repeated requests for travel information (who’s surprised at this point?). We randomly drive around and then begin knocking on doors asking people. No one seems to know. Finally some phone call is made (by driver to unknown) and the phone is handed to me while an English voice tells me to wait where I am (in front of one of the units) with my luggage and someone will be home soon. I tell the driver bye and sit on the curb with my luggage. This is Haiti.
A boy walks over to me and speaks with me. What a change from outside the compound. He is in 7th grade, über-polite, and speaks fluent French, English and Creole. A woman pulls up. She is an MD from UVA Medical here to do some clinic work and IRB writing. We chat for a moment. Then Karl pulls up in a van and is dropped off. This is one of my new roommates.
Turns out that the students I am staying with are Fogarty scholars (big deals- see :
http://www.aamc.org/students/medstudents/overseasfellowship/2008recipients.htm
Karl and Patrice are my roommates. Apparently they have done quite well! Me, on the other hand, have already fielded the question “So how does Kinesiology relate to HIV/AIDS relief work?” Fair question. Not sure I give a real fair answer. So I am the odd one for sure. Tomorrow I go visit GHESKIO.
Eric has mentioned that I can come up to the orphanage whenever I want; he told me that if I had nothing to do I was more than welcome to come help them give out rice in a local village tomorrow. Hopefully GHESKIO will have a good enough vibe that I won’t be thinking about going back up to the orphanage all day.
Finally, I must comment that I was too overwhelmed today to take any pictures. It didn’t feel right. It felt exploitive. However, I know I must so that others can experience this as well. Words don’t capture it all, no matter my effort. According to a 1998 World Bank Study, two-thirds of the population in PAP lives in slums. But when driving through, it’s hard to see the other third.
This is Haiti.
Suddenly a UN truck cuts us off. In the back sit men in full armor with guns (AK-47’s or M-16s) in hand, ready to go. I guessed if I had to see guns like that right off it was best I saw the good guys with them. These are the good guys, aren’t they?
As we wound up the road to the orphanage, I cannot explain what I saw. And I have been assured this is by no means the worst of it. There are Haitians in every nook and cranny on the streets. Not only that, but the mass of people in that condition is overwhelming, even when you’ve read about it and you know it’s coming. As we rode up, I was told about the children at the orphanage. Most have parents elsewhere in Haiti, but the parents found a way to get them to an orphanage because they could not feed/take care of them. It made me wonder what would happen if orphanages for grown-ups were allowed. Would this simply handicap them more? Or is it just too late?
The other striking thing about Haiti is how poor the roads are. You cannot imagine the half-ass job of a paving mess these things are. I was told that one problem is that companies might do a very poor job or quit halfway because when the government in power is given money to fix something (by foreign aid) it usually goes into the pockets of the officials. They simply line their own pockets while they pay people doing infrastructure jobs less or not at all. How do you fix that? The elite care nothing for the destitute. In some ways this reminds me of the states, of Alabama. I am told (as I have read) that Haiti has many times been helped by the US and many times used by the US. I hope to examine these issues more.
We arrived at the orphanage and I was immediately mobbed by about 20 dark-skinned Haitian children age four to 10. So of course I began lifting them high in the air (like I was back at Appalachia Mission!) and making funny noises and stuff. They love it. I find myself spending the next few hours eating huge amounts of rice and beans and trying to speak with the children. We find little to speak about so we just hug and play and point at things and laugh.
There were dogs there too. As much as I love dogs I had a hard time spending much time with them because I kept looking at the children thinking “my animals in the states live more comfortable lives than these people do”. Over lunch Eric and his wife Jennifer laughed at my stories and impressions of Haiti thus far. They told me that in Haiti the saying is “TIH”, or “this is Haiti”. It is that unique.
After a wonderful meal (with some mystery meat) Eric took me down to the airport to find my luggage and look for my ride again. We walk into the airport and find about 20 rows of luggage on the floor in the middle of the airport (try to imagine this in ATL or Greenville-Spartanburg or wherever you fly out of). I see my Auburn bag and my other duffle bag. I figure surely we have to sign for these, so I walk over to the claims to show them my luggage ticket. The lady laughs and tells me to just grab my luggage and go, never looking at the ticket. My instinct sensed that nothing is being stolen though.
We walk back outside and simply stand there, hoping someone there knows me or where to take me. Finally a man walks up to me and unrolls a sign that says GOODWIN GHESKIO on it. He speaks little English (but enough) and takes me into the parking lot. There he puts my bags in the car of a driver (not him) who speaks no English. (Of course, I’m leaving out the part about giving a man five bucks to carry my bag 100 feet to the car. I want you to think I was able to resist this). As I get in the car, an argument ensues and I am told to put my luggage in another vehicle. All the while, they keep asking me the address of where I am going; I of course am never told this by my said Cornell contact (thank God I chat people up on plains and at bars and picked up tips about Haiti on the way!). The new driver then argues with my contact and 2 other drivers (and I guess he won?). Finally we are off- me and a random driver who speaks no English but apparently makes a good case as to why he should take me.
As we weave in and out of traffic honking (literally every 5 seconds) we narrowly avoid a woman and another vehicle (on either side). Wanting to make conversation I say “Bien!” and hold my hands up (isn’t this the universal steering wheel sign?). He is not amused. Seriously, no smile.
After awhile we finally arrive at the compound. This is gated and guarded. Three guards peer over the fence. My driver begins honking and then yelling out the window. The guards yell back. I have NO IDEA what anyone is saying. My driver is mad as hell and they don’t seem to want to let him in. A man walks to my side of the car as I pull out my passport and make some sort of “please let us in I am a stupid US citizen”. It must’ve worked (or was it the 20 I slipped him?); my driver peels a wheel on the way in, still apparently mad as hell.
He then begins asking me what unit in the compound I am in. Of course, I was never given this information despite repeated requests for travel information (who’s surprised at this point?). We randomly drive around and then begin knocking on doors asking people. No one seems to know. Finally some phone call is made (by driver to unknown) and the phone is handed to me while an English voice tells me to wait where I am (in front of one of the units) with my luggage and someone will be home soon. I tell the driver bye and sit on the curb with my luggage. This is Haiti.
A boy walks over to me and speaks with me. What a change from outside the compound. He is in 7th grade, über-polite, and speaks fluent French, English and Creole. A woman pulls up. She is an MD from UVA Medical here to do some clinic work and IRB writing. We chat for a moment. Then Karl pulls up in a van and is dropped off. This is one of my new roommates.
Turns out that the students I am staying with are Fogarty scholars (big deals- see :
http://www.aamc.org/students/medstudents/overseasfellowship/2008recipients.htm
Karl and Patrice are my roommates. Apparently they have done quite well! Me, on the other hand, have already fielded the question “So how does Kinesiology relate to HIV/AIDS relief work?” Fair question. Not sure I give a real fair answer. So I am the odd one for sure. Tomorrow I go visit GHESKIO.
Eric has mentioned that I can come up to the orphanage whenever I want; he told me that if I had nothing to do I was more than welcome to come help them give out rice in a local village tomorrow. Hopefully GHESKIO will have a good enough vibe that I won’t be thinking about going back up to the orphanage all day.
Finally, I must comment that I was too overwhelmed today to take any pictures. It didn’t feel right. It felt exploitive. However, I know I must so that others can experience this as well. Words don’t capture it all, no matter my effort. According to a 1998 World Bank Study, two-thirds of the population in PAP lives in slums. But when driving through, it’s hard to see the other third.
This is Haiti.
Monday, January 26, 2009
Trip of a lifetime...for this tourist
Kev Crosby told me this would be the trip of a lifetime. So far it has been that and then some. My problem now is that this is going to be impossible to explain.
I finished packing around 1AM on Sunday morning. We got up to go to the airport at 350AM. Not the ideal way to start a trip. I flew from Atlanta to Miami; at Miami I was supposed to fly to Port-au-Prince (PAP- Haiti). I was supposed to leave Miami at 2 pm and arrive in PAP at 4pm. Of course, while I had emailed GHESKIO my flight information I was still yet to hear confirmation or what to do upon arriving. I figured it would all work out fine.
While I was waiting in the Miami airport, a cute “European looking (and sounding)” woman asked me if she could join me for lunch. Of course, who am I to be rude? Turns out she was polish. I told her I was part pol (she rolled her eyes..is that some line?) She told me she lived in NYC. I told her I was moving there this fall! (she laughs and rolls her eyes aging…these lines are terrible!). She told me she was a physical therapist, I tell her my partner is a physical therapist (I think at this time she realized I was not hitting on her). At any rate, as I tried to keep the conversation going, I asked her “So what are you doing in Atlanta”….(of course I had slept through my first flight and we were now in Miami)…the reply “I hate to tell you, but we are in Miami” (Imagine this with a strong polish accent and a table of ladies snickering next to us.)
In Miami the flight gradually got pushed back further and further. Finally, we boarded the plane around 430 pm. I was sitting next to what looked to be a Haitian (as most of the flight was), so I thought I should begin using my Haitian Creole. I said “m konprann Creole Haitian tu piti” ("I understand haitian Creole a little"). Mistake. He spoke back to me for about 45 seconds before I could cut him off and try to explain that I really only knew 3 sentences in Creole…I felt like an idiot. So we spoke some in English. I asked him when he learned to speak English. He said he was 17. I asked him if he learned while he was in Haiti. He replied “Yes, I learned it in Haiti all alone talking to myself”. I paused for a minute and then realized the sarcasm. “Oh, I see, you being the funny guy huh?” I said to him. He let show a wide grin and a hearty laugh as he smacked me a high-five. “That’s right!” He said, laughing. Apparently Larry David has nothing on the Haitians.
Suddenly, we were told to get off the plane; it had been canceled. Because US flights are not allowed to stay overnight in Haiti, the flight was too late. We would try to fly out the next morning. We filed off the plane while people spoke in Creole, French, Spanish, and English. I found a few English speakers to find out what was going on. As we paraded through the airport, we ended up waiting in a huge line for hours. In this melting-pot line I joined in the only English conversation I could find; thus I met Chris (visiting her grandson in Haiti), and Wedly, a Haitian coming back for his father’s funeral).
Luckily, Chris and Wedly and I stuck together that night as we were shipped to Fort Lauderdale to stay in the Hilton for a night. The next morning we landed in Haiti.
On the plane ride in I sat with another new friend I had met – Danielle (an argentinian man with a huge gray beard and pony tail twice as long as mine). He lived in Eqcuador but was traveling in to look at some data (he had a PhD in something but I forgot what!). Talk about sitting next to the right guy! As we were given our customs card on the flight I wrote “research” for “why are you here”. He saw this over my shoulder and immediately told me to get a new one and write “tourism”. Confused, I argued a bit to get an explanation. He said that if I say research they may want to see government papers or hassle me; "what research? Was I going to say bad things?" Etc. So I took his advice; I am now officially a “tourist”.
Upon landing we were informed that although it was 10am, our bags were coming on different flights, to arrive at either 2 or 4 pm. I CANNOT emphasize how bizarre the PAP airport is. I had heard a lot about it – but it truly was bizarre. There were so many little things I simply was not prepared for. For example, upon landing I was concerned with baggage claim- I could not read any signs. Yet, there was only one small belt running.
After filing for lost luggage (and being told come back this afternoon), we walked outside into the hot fog. My friend Danielle called GHESKIO for me but there was no answer. Outside, no GHESKIO member was waiting for me (although the first thing I heard was “I am your ride friend”…of course I thought “what” and then said “no, you are not”. They are very aggressive outside the airport to transport people for some money). Danielle offered to take me to the GHESKIO unit, but no one knew how to get there.
As we were standing in confusion, Chris (my mom figure thus far) came back to find me to introduce me to her son Eric. Eric is in Haiti with his wife and 5 kids running an orphanage about 1.5 hours north of PAP. We met and he offered to bring me up into the countryside and see the kids and eat rice and beans with them. HOW could I turn this down? It was amazing, after all the hub-bub about safety, etc. here I was jumping at the chance to experience “real” Haiti. So I slide 100 bucks into my boot and tried to put fears of losing my laptop out of my head. Chris road in the back with her two granddaughters and I rode up front with Eric (all of us VERY white). As we got in I asked Eric if this was safe with my laptop – to ride up into the hills, etc. He smiled at me and locked the doors. Ha!
I finished packing around 1AM on Sunday morning. We got up to go to the airport at 350AM. Not the ideal way to start a trip. I flew from Atlanta to Miami; at Miami I was supposed to fly to Port-au-Prince (PAP- Haiti). I was supposed to leave Miami at 2 pm and arrive in PAP at 4pm. Of course, while I had emailed GHESKIO my flight information I was still yet to hear confirmation or what to do upon arriving. I figured it would all work out fine.
While I was waiting in the Miami airport, a cute “European looking (and sounding)” woman asked me if she could join me for lunch. Of course, who am I to be rude? Turns out she was polish. I told her I was part pol (she rolled her eyes..is that some line?) She told me she lived in NYC. I told her I was moving there this fall! (she laughs and rolls her eyes aging…these lines are terrible!). She told me she was a physical therapist, I tell her my partner is a physical therapist (I think at this time she realized I was not hitting on her). At any rate, as I tried to keep the conversation going, I asked her “So what are you doing in Atlanta”….(of course I had slept through my first flight and we were now in Miami)…the reply “I hate to tell you, but we are in Miami” (Imagine this with a strong polish accent and a table of ladies snickering next to us.)
In Miami the flight gradually got pushed back further and further. Finally, we boarded the plane around 430 pm. I was sitting next to what looked to be a Haitian (as most of the flight was), so I thought I should begin using my Haitian Creole. I said “m konprann Creole Haitian tu piti” ("I understand haitian Creole a little"). Mistake. He spoke back to me for about 45 seconds before I could cut him off and try to explain that I really only knew 3 sentences in Creole…I felt like an idiot. So we spoke some in English. I asked him when he learned to speak English. He said he was 17. I asked him if he learned while he was in Haiti. He replied “Yes, I learned it in Haiti all alone talking to myself”. I paused for a minute and then realized the sarcasm. “Oh, I see, you being the funny guy huh?” I said to him. He let show a wide grin and a hearty laugh as he smacked me a high-five. “That’s right!” He said, laughing. Apparently Larry David has nothing on the Haitians.
Suddenly, we were told to get off the plane; it had been canceled. Because US flights are not allowed to stay overnight in Haiti, the flight was too late. We would try to fly out the next morning. We filed off the plane while people spoke in Creole, French, Spanish, and English. I found a few English speakers to find out what was going on. As we paraded through the airport, we ended up waiting in a huge line for hours. In this melting-pot line I joined in the only English conversation I could find; thus I met Chris (visiting her grandson in Haiti), and Wedly, a Haitian coming back for his father’s funeral).
Luckily, Chris and Wedly and I stuck together that night as we were shipped to Fort Lauderdale to stay in the Hilton for a night. The next morning we landed in Haiti.
On the plane ride in I sat with another new friend I had met – Danielle (an argentinian man with a huge gray beard and pony tail twice as long as mine). He lived in Eqcuador but was traveling in to look at some data (he had a PhD in something but I forgot what!). Talk about sitting next to the right guy! As we were given our customs card on the flight I wrote “research” for “why are you here”. He saw this over my shoulder and immediately told me to get a new one and write “tourism”. Confused, I argued a bit to get an explanation. He said that if I say research they may want to see government papers or hassle me; "what research? Was I going to say bad things?" Etc. So I took his advice; I am now officially a “tourist”.
Upon landing we were informed that although it was 10am, our bags were coming on different flights, to arrive at either 2 or 4 pm. I CANNOT emphasize how bizarre the PAP airport is. I had heard a lot about it – but it truly was bizarre. There were so many little things I simply was not prepared for. For example, upon landing I was concerned with baggage claim- I could not read any signs. Yet, there was only one small belt running.
After filing for lost luggage (and being told come back this afternoon), we walked outside into the hot fog. My friend Danielle called GHESKIO for me but there was no answer. Outside, no GHESKIO member was waiting for me (although the first thing I heard was “I am your ride friend”…of course I thought “what” and then said “no, you are not”. They are very aggressive outside the airport to transport people for some money). Danielle offered to take me to the GHESKIO unit, but no one knew how to get there.
As we were standing in confusion, Chris (my mom figure thus far) came back to find me to introduce me to her son Eric. Eric is in Haiti with his wife and 5 kids running an orphanage about 1.5 hours north of PAP. We met and he offered to bring me up into the countryside and see the kids and eat rice and beans with them. HOW could I turn this down? It was amazing, after all the hub-bub about safety, etc. here I was jumping at the chance to experience “real” Haiti. So I slide 100 bucks into my boot and tried to put fears of losing my laptop out of my head. Chris road in the back with her two granddaughters and I rode up front with Eric (all of us VERY white). As we got in I asked Eric if this was safe with my laptop – to ride up into the hills, etc. He smiled at me and locked the doors. Ha!
Thursday, January 22, 2009
Although I am in the midst of packing (still), I have to post after today.
I was able to hear Dr. Jolly give an excellent talk on Haiti on Tuesday, and he was kind enough to meet with me today to share some of his work in Haiti with me. What a pleasant surprise the visit was! Having already encountered some "bitter" folks about medicine and work in developing countries, it was refreshing to meet someone so knowledgeable and passionate about it! We spoke at length about Haiti, the economic and health problems, and my upcoming experience. He even had some coffee made and offered a "cheers" as we took a coffee break.
It was such a refreshing experience. I left feeling like I was finally "ready" to go down and serve; although with the stories I've heard and read one can't help but wonder if he is ever ready. I was also invited to give a seminar upon returning from my trip - which I would love to do.
I left remembering Dr. Jolly's office remembering exactly why I came to Auburn and why I want to do work in a developing country.
Hopefully that won't get beat out of me too soon.
I was able to hear Dr. Jolly give an excellent talk on Haiti on Tuesday, and he was kind enough to meet with me today to share some of his work in Haiti with me. What a pleasant surprise the visit was! Having already encountered some "bitter" folks about medicine and work in developing countries, it was refreshing to meet someone so knowledgeable and passionate about it! We spoke at length about Haiti, the economic and health problems, and my upcoming experience. He even had some coffee made and offered a "cheers" as we took a coffee break.
It was such a refreshing experience. I left feeling like I was finally "ready" to go down and serve; although with the stories I've heard and read one can't help but wonder if he is ever ready. I was also invited to give a seminar upon returning from my trip - which I would love to do.
I left remembering Dr. Jolly's office remembering exactly why I came to Auburn and why I want to do work in a developing country.
Hopefully that won't get beat out of me too soon.
Monday, January 19, 2009
Only a few days until I depart. Things are hectic around Auburn as I prepare...Students to tutor at the last minute...Things to write for the lab before I depart...Plenty of cleaning at the lab and at home....But two interesting things to mention:
1) As I was cleaning my lab desk/area out last night, a security guard came by to see what all the noise was (it was 2 am). We got to talking and he had been to Haiti on mission work.
2) Perhaps more interesting is that tomorrow Dr. Curits Jolly is giving a lecture on campus about Haiti and agriculture/sustainability, etc. I could not beleive it! I am actually helping with an experiment tomorrow but will be "dipping out" and across campus to go hear this and perhaps meet him. Such a small world...
I am also in the midst of finishing "Mountains beyond Mountains" (thanks Harrison!) and have "The Uses of Haiti" to read while I am down there.
How can this country be so close to us, yet with such poverty and poor living conditions for so many? And what can we (you and I) do about it? No one chooses to be born into poverty.
1) As I was cleaning my lab desk/area out last night, a security guard came by to see what all the noise was (it was 2 am). We got to talking and he had been to Haiti on mission work.
2) Perhaps more interesting is that tomorrow Dr. Curits Jolly is giving a lecture on campus about Haiti and agriculture/sustainability, etc. I could not beleive it! I am actually helping with an experiment tomorrow but will be "dipping out" and across campus to go hear this and perhaps meet him. Such a small world...
I am also in the midst of finishing "Mountains beyond Mountains" (thanks Harrison!) and have "The Uses of Haiti" to read while I am down there.
How can this country be so close to us, yet with such poverty and poor living conditions for so many? And what can we (you and I) do about it? No one chooses to be born into poverty.
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