Day 1: You Pay to Play American!

Today was quite interesting. I was told “be ready” for our driver at 7:30, but in typical Haitian fashion we were picked up at 7:50. I don’t mind it at all, its just strange. Very weird how everyone just does there own pace and its no worries. Today part of me wondered if that way of life negatively impacted the country. Many would say that we (US Americans) are on the other side of the spectrum; all work and no play or relaxation. (Isn’t it strange how we say we are Americans when really we are US Americans or US citizens? Seems a bit egocentric).
At any rate, the ride to GHESKIO downtown from our “plush” accommodations, I realized that I had not seen “people upon people” yet. It was amazing and made you feel alive in some weird way.

GHESKIO is guarded and connected to Quisqueya, one of the universities here.
There are many “clinics” on the site, but really everyone appears to work on top of everyone else. Karl (one of my roommates; a 4th year med student at Vanderbilt) has been incredibly kind in taking me under his wing (he’s been here for 6 months) and allowing me to “shadow” him to get started. First of all, it is a mostly Haitian-staffed work place (I think a full time doc at this clinic would make about 20,000 – hard to convince someone not to go to the states and make six times that). So it was an isolating experience. Thank God for Karl. He walked around the grounds with me today and introduced me to everyone and explained what I was doing, etc. People were extremely friendly despite the fact that I still forget what to say when someone says “Koman ou ye?”(how are you?)…The response is “m’anfom” (I’m fine)….Books have taught me Haitian Creole, but in the city here it is this strange mix of Creole and French. So you’re just as likely to be greeted with “Sa va?”(French how are you or the equivalent). Apparently, French is the language of the rich, so people like speaking any French they can. Weird, because the French oppressed them. Nonetheless, I am going to learn Creole because it seems to be the way to break down some barriers (why would rich white guy speak the language of the people?).
Nonetheless, there is a lot of “kissing” on one side of the cheek. In fact, at one point I met a lady (Karl introduced me of course as I simply smiled) and the lady greeted Karl, stuck here cheek out, then greeted me and stuck her cheek out. And of course, I gave her a real kiss on the cheek like an idiot (rather than the more appropriate and hygienic cheek rub with a kiss sound). Brilliant move on my part.

At one point we met a Dentist who said “oh yes, I heard about you – I saw your records! You are the kid who doesn’t make less than an A+”. Considering I have been trying to be more laid back about everything this was a bit embarrassing. I kind of laughed and told the folks around me that he was exaggerating. I had several other inquiries about exactly what I would be doing. Everyone seemed genuining happy and surprised I would come down for six months, especially since I am NOT in any program. In fact, most people like me are either in a program and doing a rotations (1-2 months) or are Fogarty scholars like my roommates. When I was getting my name badge and stuff the lady was like “So do you have your evaluation papers for the end of the rotation?” I had to explain that I am between my PhD and MD and that this isn’t really a rotation for me. Several things have been like that- confusion because I decided to come outside of any real infrastructure. It reminded me of FJ moving to ECU to work in a lab before PT school. Maybe this will pay off as well as his move did!

Thankfully, there is interest in me developing a research project here. One doctor stopped me in the hallway and told me I should really try to develop a project this week. He was extremely nice but it made me laugh after all the hassles I had gotten about that (not sure if this was mentioned in blog?).

Sometimes the lights will cut off at work. This is common here. The electricity grid simply can’t handle this number of people. Glad I got the back lit keypad and long battery life! If you’re in a conversation and the lights cut off you simply keep talking like nothing happened! TIH, right?
Work ended and I went home, feeling quite isolated. When I got back into the compound I grabbed my tennis racket and went to the courts. They were full. I watched a Haitian man beat the pants off of a heavy, white middle aged European man. Later I was informed that the man (European) is very rich and pays Haitians that are good to play him. I went down to hit on the hitting wall by myself. A young Haitian boy sat and watched me (maybe 15?). I tried to talk to him some but he spoke Creole and French and no English; me just the opposite. After some time I made motions that indicated I was offering he could play with my racket if he wanted. He took it and hit on the wall while I rested. He was awesome, as were all the kids- not sure I would beat any of them. Some other kids came over and played and we tried over and over to talk. Finally a 30 year-old man named Frankie (Haitian) spoke to me and told me he knew some English. His English was quite good and he was excited to practice it with me and teach me Creole. For the next several hours I talked with Frankie and all the kids by the hitting wall. It was awesome. They told me I have to come back the next night.

Last story: Frankie told me that if I play with any Haitian I will be charged a fee. He said that it is expected that an American will pay to play because they can always go back to America and make money and they will want to play while in Haiti. He said that he charges as well, unless it is a good friend. He said that one rich man on the compound will pay you to play him in tennis but won’t give you work to do anywhere else because he wants to be sure you need money from tennis. I asked him if that made him feel taken advantage of. He said no; he knows that if he stops playing tennis there is someone else ready to step up and make money by playing with this guy and other rich expatriots. Interesting perspective.